Moustache GAME 160: choose your battery and build without paying for extras you do not need

Start with the descent you ride every week

The Moustache GAME 160 makes sense if your routes include descents that shape your bike choice: rocks, steps, steep corners and sections where you want room for error when two challenges come in quick succession. Before falling for the top-spec build, think about a recent ride. Did you stop because the battery ran out, your hands were tired or you lacked the confidence to continue down a technical trail? These are different problems, and your budget should follow those priorities.

This is a buying guide based on official documentation and analysis of practical use, not a field test. The range examined combines 29-inch wheels, 170 mm of front travel, 160 mm at the rear and a claimed 64.2-degree head angle. These are the figures published by Moustache for GAME 160. Our view: it is worth considering if you want an electric enduro bike and will make use of its suspension; try simpler alternatives if almost all your riding is on easy tracks.

GAME 160 is not the same as GAME 150

The full name matters. A listing that only says GAME could refer to different travel, a different build or a bike from an earlier season. Ask for the quote to identify the model, size, battery, colour and product reference. An attractive photograph does not confirm which combination is physically available in the shop.

This guide includes photographs of the GAME 160.7, 160.8 and 160.9, identified in their captions. The official files retain references to 2025 even though the specification pages remain current in September 2026. That does not make the bikes new launches or mean they automatically have every current software setting. The specific bike's specifications and configuration on delivery take priority.

To compare two quotes, request a written list of differences. If one shop offers the mid-range version with the larger battery and another advertises the top model with the smaller battery, the price difference does not reflect better components alone. Separating these factors avoids paying to move up the range while assuming you have also bought more capacity for your rides.

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600 or 750 Wh: buy enough capacity for your demanding rides

The Spanish configurator for the GAME 160.7 lets you choose 600 or 750 Wh. The nominal difference is 150 Wh, or 25% relative to the smaller battery. That calculation compares stored energy; it does not demonstrate an identical increase in distance or elevation gain on every route.

To choose, divide your riding into three situations: your regular loop, the long ride you genuinely repeat and the exceptional adventure. I would give more weight to the first two. Carrying enough capacity for an annual adventure may be reasonable if you have no charging options, but it should not be an automatic decision based on the bigger number.

A planning example, not a measurement from this bike: if you keep 20% of the energy in reserve, you would have 480 Wh to work with from the smaller battery and 600 Wh from the larger one. The right reserve depends on your options for getting home. An unavoidable final climb calls for more caution than a loop with several exits towards the village. Do not treat an on-screen estimate as a guarantee of reaching your destination.

The Bosch CX and the update to check

Moustache's current specifications identify the Performance Line CX BDU38 and state 120 Nm. Bosch explains that its Performance Upgrade 2.0 depends on the drive unit and the bike manufacturer's approval: for the BDU384Y it allows up to 120 Nm, 750 W and 600% assistance, the latter up to 15 km/h. These are conditional maximums, not continuous output or a promise that applies to any older CX.

Before collecting a display bike, ask the shop to show you the installed drive unit, system version and available values in eBike Flow. Allow time for this check, rather than leaving it until the car is loaded and the shop is closing. Save the initial configuration so you can return to a baseline if you customise the modes later.

We recommend starting with a response you can control progressively. On a steep climb with a tight corner, holding your line matters as much as getting up the slope. A useful test is to repeat a familiar climb with small changes in assistance, leaving tires and suspension unchanged. That will help you identify what has improved and what needs more attention.

160.7: first identify what you are missing

The 160.7 combines a FOX 38 Performance, a Float X Performance, a Shimano XT rear derailleur with other SLX components, and four-piston XT brakes. The Spanish product page lets you check the complete setup; the rear derailleur's model name alone does not describe the whole drivetrain.

For a buyer still learning to understand suspension settings, this version deserves to be the starting point when getting a quote. Not because it guarantees the best value in every deal, but because it lets you ask a specific question: what real limitation would the next build up address? If the answer is simply that the higher-spec version looks more appealing, treat that as a personal preference and decide what it is worth to you.

Set aside some money to adapt the bike to your body and your routes. Familiar pedals, correctly positioned brake levers and an initial setup session may be more urgent than replacing brand-new parts. Ask the shop to explain what handover includes and how a follow-up inspection is arranged once you have completed a few rides and gathered useful feedback.

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160.8 and 160.9: have a clear reason to step up

The GAME 160.8 features a SRAM GX AXS T-Type drivetrain. The 160.9 features X0 AXS T-Type, a FOX 38 Factory GRIP X2, a Float X Factory and Just_Carbon wheels. Check those components on the bike being offered, because the brand warns that equipment may change.

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Electronic shifting may appeal for its operation and how it suits your preferences, but it adds a routine you need to understand. Before buying, have the shop explain the power supply, charging and basic procedure if it stops responding. What matters is being able to resolve a simple problem during a weekend away without relying on your memory of a rushed demonstration.

The same applies to suspension with more adjustment options: its value comes when you know which problem you want to address. If you cannot distinguish insufficient support from an unsuitable rebound setting, ask for a setup session. Buying more adjustment options does not automatically give you the knowledge to use them. The improvement needs to be evident in your riding, not just the parts list.

A suspension test that gives useful answers

Request a test with pressures and settings prepared for your weight with riding kit. Bring your helmet, backpack and usual riding shoes. If you test a bike set up for someone else, you may end up attributing behaviour caused by poor setup to the frame.

Choose a short, repeatable section: a braking zone, several consecutive bumps and a corner where you need to load the bike again. Record one observation at a time. For example: the front dives too much under braking, the rear loses support through successive obstacles or it is hard to hold your riding position. These describe sensations to discuss with the technician, not firm diagnoses.

Change one parameter at a time and retain the previous baseline. If you change pressure, rebound and handlebar height together, it is difficult to know what caused the improvement. You do not need to find the definitive setup in one morning. You need to check that you understand the bike and that the shop can help tailor it to your needs without premature component changes.

Brakes, tires and wheels: budget to keep riding

The 160.9 specifications list Shimano XT brakes with 220 mm front and 203 mm rear rotors. They also identify a rear Assegai with a DoubleDown casing. These are equipment choices; they do not establish that every rider will need less maintenance or that puncture risk disappears.

To compare ownership costs, ask for the price of a compatible set of brake pads, an equivalent rear tire and a typical wheel repair. You do not need to predict how many months they will last. You just need to know whether you can afford those replacements after paying for the bike. A deal that uses your entire budget leaves little room to maintain the very build that won you over.

During the test, check that you can brake with one finger without stretching your hand and maintain a comfortable riding position. If discomfort develops, describe when it starts and on what terrain. Position, setup and technique deserve a review before blaming a particular caliper. For more detail, see our eMTB brake guide.

Test the fit when stopped and when storing the bike too

Do not choose a size solely from a rider-height range. Check that you can put a foot down, move the bike between your legs and lower the saddle enough for your descents. If you are between two sizes, ask to try both with an equivalent saddle height. A lap of the car park without adjusting anything tells you little.

Do a second, less spectacular test: lift it as much as your normal storage arrangements require. That might mean a step into the storage room, placing it on a rack or turning it within the available lift space. Do not attempt movements beyond your ability; recreate the task with help. A bike that fits your trails must fit your home too.

Ask how to access the battery and request a demonstration of the approved procedure for that bike. Find out which tools and how much space it requires, and where you will charge it. Do not judge ease of removal from the down tube's appearance. This hands-on check can be more useful when choosing between two configurations than small differences in advertised weight.

How to compare offers in Spain

The Spanish pages consulted show promotions and battery options. A dated quote is therefore more useful than assuming one advertised price applies to every size. Ask for the final price, chosen battery, included accessories, realistic lead time and delivery terms. If the seller advertises a discount from list price, still compare the total with other equivalent bikes.

For a display bike or one from an earlier season, ask about its use and storage history. Request a documented inspection of the electrical system and overall condition, rather than treating the mileage as a complete assessment. Also check that the correct charger, keys and documentation are supplied.

The website has warranty sections with different wording. I would not resolve that discrepancy by choosing the longest period: I would request the terms applicable to the bike and buyer in writing. The same applies to any commercial extension or registration. That document should explain what is covered, what is required and who handles a claim from your place of residence.

Questions Before You Decide

Does an older GAME automatically get 120 Nm?

It must not be taken for granted. You have to identify the drive unit, check the authorization and review the options available in the application for that particular bike. A similar trade name is not sufficient to demonstrate compatibility.

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Our editorial choice would start with a well-set-up 160.7 and a battery that meets your actual riding needs. Moving up to a 160.8 or 160.9 would then need a specific reason: drivetrain preferences, adjustment needs or a budget that lets you maintain the complete bike without cutting back on rides.